Lisa Drewe has hiked, biked, swam and kayaked around 150 British islands. She is the author of ‘Islandeering: Adventures Around the Edge of Britain’s Islands’. Here she shares her favourite routes for a true wilderness experience.
The best islands and archipelagos in the world
I have dreamed of islandeering my whole life. For over 30 years I travelled the globe seeking islands to walk, cycle or swim around. Then, several years ago, during a sea kayaking trip around the Isles of Scilly, I realised that the islands and archipelagos of Britain are the best in the world. That moment seeded what has now become an obsession and a quest. This is to chart coastal routes around the edge of the very best islands of the British Isles. Exploring the foreshore and seascapes, wildlife, history and people and finding the adventure on the way. Few of my routes have been tried before and certainly not written up for others to follow. It is my quest to share my experiences and know-how with you.
Escape the modern world
What’s the fascination you may well ask? The answer is simple. I find islands to be very special places. They are where I escape the hum of the modern world, where I find peace gazing towards distant horizons. Places where I feel that life is shaped more by the forces of nature and community spirit than anywhere on the mainland. I find these places to be deeply restorative and they offer me a very special kind of freedom.
My real fascination is the island’s outer edge; the boundary between land and sea and possibly the greatest wildness left in Britain. Here at the frontier between two worlds, the ocean reveals its secrets twice a day. It offers a unique window into life beneath the waves. The intertidal zone, or foreshore, is often where we encounter incredible wildlife. We see the dramatic geology of cliffs, deep gullies and rock arches and find the best in adventure.
Here I share five of my favourite island circumnavigations where I’ve had a true wilderness experience.
1. Scolt Head, Norfolk
Sitting off the north coast of Norfolk this is a paradise of sand dunes, salt marsh, mudflats and shingle. The location is perfect for wild swims and foraging.
This 13.8 km low-tide route is a mix of wading ankle-deep along the creek beds of the south shore and walking the vast beach of the north.
Tidal creeks, mudbanks and samphire forests
Access to the island from the starting point at Burnham Overy Staithe firstly crosses two tidal creeks. The island route then heads west along the creeks that parallel the south shore. Here, using your navigational skills to locate the head of Norton Creek, you enter a very different world. The glistening mudbanks and samphire ‘forests’ are alive with the sounds of draining water. This is complemented by the calls of the huge variety of seabirds feeding on the skeletons of crabs and shellfish left by the last tide. There are plenty of secluded warm pools to take a dip on the way.
As the creek widens the route veers inland through the wild flowers of Hut Marsh. Its isolated shingle-roofed hut is used by groups to watch the amazing birdlife. The route then continues into the dunes of the north shore. Here, turning east, the several kilometres of deserted shingle and sand beach that runs alongside the pounding surf of the North Sea is full of mirages on hot days. Dunes are rich in colonising grasses dotted with sea holly, birds foot trefoil and orchids.
Once back at the landing beach it is possible to return to Burnham in true islandeering style. Let the incoming tide float you gently back. Seasonal boats do also run if you don’t want to get your kit wet.
Full route description and map in Islandeering book; and GPX file at https://www.islandeering.com/islands/scolt-head/
2. Chapel, Cumbria
This is an uninhabited island within the wilds of Morecambe Bay that can only be accessed and circumnavigated via an exhilarating 5.8 km tidal route across notorious sinking sands and extremely quick tides.
The safest way to get there is with a Queen’s Guide to the Sands who will know the best route across the fast-flowing and ever changing path of the River Leven and the quick sands of the bay. Ray Porter is the man for the job.
A place where few would dare to step
As you progress onto the sands from Canal Foot there is a very real sense that you are in a place few would even dare to step – yet you are secure in the knowledge that your guide will keep you safe. Ray knows these sands intimately. Using a pole to test for the best route to the island, he also shares fascinating stories of his life as a local cockle and shrimp fisherman. The vastness and emptiness of the Bay seems to bring more focus and intensity to his words.
On the way back I thought he was pulling my leg when he told me he could catch fish with his feet. Then, when crossing the Leven, he bent forward into the swirling waters and pulled a flatfish from beneath his foot. He had one more surprise up his sleeve. Bags of sweet and succulent hand-peeled brown shrimp on sale from his shed to be enjoyed on dry land with a pint from the Bay Horse Inn.
Full route description and map in Islandeering book; and GPX file at https://www.islandeering.com/islands/chapel/
3. Ynys Giftan, North Wales
An uninhabited Welsh gem of an island in the vast wild tidal sands of the Dwyryd Estuary great for bathing in deep emerald green pools and fishing for grey mullet trapped by the last tide.
This 4.5 km route is an easy adventure for those that like messing around in the water.
Shoals of fish
Access to the island from Talsarnau rail station is via a path through salt marsh. You also have to jump or wade across the meandering curves of small creeks. There are routes to stay dry but that’s not nearly so much fun. Once on the tidal sands the route to and around the island is straightforward. The deep pools at the island’s south tip are wonderful to swim and dive into. However, don’t be surprised by the shoals of fish that you are likely to be sharing the water with. The last time I was there a father and son were spearfishing for grey mullet in the same pool I was swimming in. I’d have been more concerned for my safety if they were better shots and their spears weren’t made of bamboo.
There is a derelict farmhouse to explore amongst the tangled foliage of the east shore. Other than that, the joy of this island is admiring the contrasting views of the mountains of Snowdonia and the pastel-coloured Italianate spires of Port Merion.
Full route description and map in Islandeering book; and GPX file at https://www.islandeering.com/islands/ynys-giftan/
4. Vallay, Outer Hebrides
Just off the northwest coast of North Uist this is an island with an exhilarating tidal crossing, deserted white beaches, flower-studded machair and wild nights under the stars.
The 15.7 km circumnavigation requires a 3 km crossing of tidal sands and free-range walking following the many animal trails around the island’s outer edge and the dunes and vast beaches of the north shore.
Staggering beauty
Starting from Aird Glas the route follows the tracks made in the wet sand by the tractors used to farm the island. The ruins of austere Vallay House are interesting to explore (outside only) once on the island. Continuing clockwise around the foreshore to round the western tip nothing can quite prepare you for the staggering beauty of the north coast and the breath-taking views to the St Kilda archipelago – the remotest part of Britain, sixty or so kilometres away.
The north shore is then a string of gloriously deserted white sand beaches delineated by rocky strands with a backdrop of flower-studded machair and undulating sand-dunes. You’ll see plenty of flattened grass patches here and mounds of shells discarded by the island’s thriving otter community. This is an incredible spot for wild camping and swimming and I’d be surprised if you saw anyone there other than the farmer during the day.
Full route description and map in Islandeering book; and GPX file at https://www.islandeering.com/islands/vallay/
5. Taransay
The ultimate in wilderness experience on a true castaway island with a total immersion in the natural world.
The 21.7 km route is free-range, following numerous animal trails along the coast, passing heather-clad hillsides, several deserted beaches, a spectacular natural rock arch and ancient ruins with plenty of wild camping and swimming spots on the way. The only way to get there is by kayak or to hitch a ride with a local boatman. On the landing beach you’ll be greeted by pristine white sands, fairy terns plunging daintily into the water, gulls and oystercatchers nesting in the dunes with daisies, thrift, celandine and sundew illuminating the surrounding machair.
The starting point of the route at the village of Paibel is now in ruins save a couple of intact buildings. It was here that Ben Fogle found fame when he, along with thirty or so others, was filmed living self-sufficiently for BBC’s Castaway – the first of the reality TV shows.
Ancient ruins, standing stone and a natural rock arch
The route passes the ruins of the ancient village of Uidh and its standing stone before crossing the isthmus and its two glorious sand beaches to the reach the wild and lonely area of rocks, moor and twin peaks of the western end of the island. The route continues around the coast past the huge natural rock arch at Roagh before crossing back to the eastern part of the island where it is possible to see the outline of abandoned lazy beds and imagine past souls toiling their soils here.
There are a number of ruins along the east coast before reaching the spectacular sand spit at Corran Ra, the setting for the film Rocket Post.
Full route description and map in Islandeering book; and GPX file at https://www.islandeering.com/islands/taransay/
I hope you find some inspiration in this post and feel the same way I do about islands. The term ‘Islomania’ was first coined by Lawrence Durrell who described people who find islands somehow irresistible, the mere knowledge that they are on an island, a little world surrounded by the sea, fills them with an indescribable intoxication. That certainly describes how I feel. Whatever your interest and need I can guarantee that you’ll find walking the outer edge of the islands addictive.
About the author
Lisa Drewe has hiked, biked, run, swum and kayaked around over 160 of Britain’s islands. Before that she spent her adult life exploring the mountains and islands of the world. Initially trained as a biologist, her journey led her to swim with tiger sharks in Oman, dodge gunfire under the Swords of Qadisiyah, and hang from a helicopter over the Sydney Olympic Stadium. She is the chair of the charity Whale and Dolphin Conservation and is the founder of www.islandeering.com, the website for island obsessives.
Islandeering: Adventures Around the Edge of Britain’s Hidden Islands (Wild Things Publishing, £16.99)
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